We are pleased to announce a new line of findings and will be debuting them at the Aztec show. JAR/JAF will be carrying a number of the findings in non-tarnishing silver color. This plating is a false-rhodium finish. After careful consultation with our plating company and with a number of JAR/JAF findings users, we chose the plating instead of sterling since it will not tarnish and does not need to be polished or protected. We are starting with a number of our findings and will expand to other findings as they are requested. We also have several new findings that lend themselves to the silver finish rather than the gold. Of course we will continue to carry the 22K gold plated findings. We have a number of new pieces that we have not had in the past and unfortunately we have had to discontinue some finding designs as various manufacturers have closed.

We also are putting out a line of chandelier and sconce kits – a number of them in the silver finish.
If you are at the show please stop by and take a look.

Thank-you,

Judy Andraka

We are leaving home on Friday, July 9th and will return on July 23. I am sorry that we will not be available to take or fill phone orders during that time. If you have a small order and we have enough pieces with us, we could mail it from the road if you contact us by email. Or if you have questions, please send them by e-mail and we will answer.

We will be home in full operation after July 23.

Thank-you,
Judy Andraka

Lampshades may be made in any size or shape, color or trim. Scrapbooking card stock makes a good base for the shade itself. This material may be shaped, printed, slit or anything else you might wish to do with a paper. Make sure that the paper that you are using is “archival” so that heat, light and time will not greatly affect it. The following tutorials contain directions for making patterns for various shade shapes. Some patterns are included, but you will probably want to adjust the size to your own needs. (Also available as a pdf document.)

Some thoughts before starting:

I have found it helpful to work out the pattern on paper first and then cut the pattern out of acetate for a permanent pattern or template for tracing. Don’t forget to allow for the thickness of the lead pencil around the shape to keep the size that you want – or cut inside the traced line.

To make several or more of the exact same lampshade in size and shape – Make one paper pattern with darkened edges and use the clone or multiple on one sheet option on the copier to print a sheet full of the shades on the chosen paper / card. Print on the back side, so that any lines left will not show on the outside of the shade.

After you have made your pattern, go to the tutorial Making Lampshades to put your lampshade together.

There will be patterns for:

1.Cylinder type shades
2.Cone shaped
3.Square
4.Rectangle
5.Curved side shapes

Materials needed:

Scrap paper
Paper / cardstock for your shade
Clear acetate sheet – JAR/JAF R-53
Trim for the shade – if desired

Tools:

Compass
Ruler
Scissors

Material for the shade:

Thanks to the scrapbooking industry, there are many wonderful types of paper available for making the shades. You will find that most of the textured and patterned ones work best in one inch scale. The texture is usually too heavy for a quarter inch scale shade.

There are some papers that look like raw silk – these make wonderfully rich looking shades.

Parchment paper looks like a parchment shade. I have used a tiny brown pen to put stitching on a rustic shade.

Some papers have embedments in them – if small enough, these will work well.

You cannot use papers with a decided grain or stripe on the cone shaped shade. Because the pattern is in a curved shape, the pattern may start out parallel to one end and is lying horizontal by the time you get to the next end – and of course they will not line up!

You can print patterns from fabric onto card stock, using a copier or a scanner. Using these machines you can also reduce the pattern to the appropriate size. Just remember directional patterns or stripes will not work on the cone shaped shade. Print the design on the right side pf the paper first, then print your cut-outs on the back side.

If your paper has enough body, you can cut designs in it. Floral and leaf designs were very popular in the 1950’s using this method and outlining the cuts with watercolor or ink.

© 2010 Judith Oak Andraka – jandraka@jar-jaf.com – www.jar-jaf.com

This tutorial shows a way to construct your lampshade structure at a very reasonable cost. It is adaptable to any size or shape lampshade that you desire. The picture to the right shows a tiny shade on a candle sconce. These tiny shades have also been used on chandeliers in the popular “shades on candles” style of fixture.  (Also available as a PDF document.)

Materials:

- Clear acetate sheet – JAR/JAF R-53
- 1 eyelet # 631 for each shade or (longer eyelet to raise shade up more. #1589)
- Strong glue that dries clear – such as Weldbond or Ultimate
- Paper / cardstock for your shade
- Trim for the shade (pictured shade has no trim on it)

Tools:

- 1/8” hole punch
- Scissors
- Sharp point – such as large needle, Diamond reamer
- Clips – R-213

1. Cut out your shade and roll into a cylinder or a cone shape – which ever you prefer. (For patterns see instructions on Making Patterns for Lampshades #1). Glue the sides together by overlapping in a 1/16” seam or less. I use tiny clips to hold it while drying. R-213 are good because they are smooth with no teeth to mar the damp paper.

2. The eyelet 631should be large enough for the candle socket to fit into it. You will slide it over the candle and glue it in place with the rim up.

3. Measure the diameter of the shade about 1/8” above the lower edge.

4. It is important that the center hole of the plastic be directly in the center – so I make a hole and then cut the outside of the plastic around it. It is much easier than trying to put the punch in the center after cutting out the circle. (More to hold onto now).

5. I use a plastic circle template with various size circles to get the exact size of the circle I desire. (Or the circle can be punched if you have a punch of the correct size). The acrylic should fit about 3/32” – 1/8” above the inside lower rim of the shade.

6. Put the template over the acrylic with the punched hole in the very center of the template circle. The template I have has lines at 4 places around the outside of the circle – so I can line the acrylic up with a ruler and the lines – putting the center where the lines cross directly at the center of the 1/8” punched hole on the acrylic sheet.

7. Then take a sharp needle or a diamond point reamer and trace around the edge of the template circle. This gives a deep scratch which you can use to cut along with the scissors. (Tiny Fiskars or small curved scissors are very good for this. Take a fine emery board and rub off any bumps or tiny angles or chips.

8. When it is ready, glue the acrylic inside the shade using a glue like Weldbond or Ultimate. First, run a thin ring of glue at the level that you want the acrylic to sit. Put the acrylic circle in so that it is located evenly from the bottom edge of the shade all around. Then add a second ring of glue on the bottom side of the acrylic against the shade – thus the acrylic has glue on both sides of its edge where it meets the shade.

9. When the glue is dry, you can glue trim on the shade if you have not done it prior to putting the acrylic in.

10. When all the glue is totally dry, slip the shade over the bulb and slide it down the socket to rest on the rim of the eyelet. Put a small bit of glue on the rim only and gently push the acrylic against it.

11. Make sure that the shade is sitting straight and allow it to dry.

12. If you need to take the shade off – put your knife blade between the acetate and the eyelet rim and pop the shade off.

© 2010 Judith Oak Andraka – jandraka@jar-jaf.com – www.jar-jaf.com

(To read the rest of the tutorial explaining lighting download this pdf)

We are posting the instructions here on the web. The same instructions – printed – are also included in each kit.

Come visit us often to see the latest kit offered.

Build your own collectible quality one-inch-to-the-foot miniature chandeliers, lamps and accessories from jewelry findings. Many projects can be electrified.

Volume Five contains over 75 projects plus several for small scale. Clear instructions and full size line drawings are accompanied by JAR / JAF item numbers for easy reference to the JAR / JAF Catalog.
The 64 page, 8 ½” x 11” book of original designs by Jeri Futvoye contains:

• 14 Chandeliers and Ceiling Fixtures – 7 are electric, 2 are small scale
• 21 Table and Floor Lamps – 17 are electrified
• 6 Sconces and Wall Brackets – 4 are electric
• Candle Stands, Lawn Table, Vanity Sets, Compotes, Torchere and more

Also included is a complete list of tools and their applications
Explanations of cements, glues, adhesives
Instructions for stained glass, making pendants, wiring, etc.

Several projects are from the Jeri’s KADELI KIT designs, made available for the first time in instruction book form for use by individuals. A few projects from earlier Volumes (1, 2 and 3) have been redesigned utilizing currently available parts. No project in Volume Four is repeated in Volume Five. Volumes 1, 2, 3 and 4 are out of print.

A classic book on Dollhouse Lighting. This 34 page book covers the basic components of a miniature electrical system and helps you choose which type wiring to use. It contains complete information on planning and installing hard wire or tape systems. The author also Includes charts for bulbs and for transformers. 67 illustrations on procedures, 13 photos, 3 House diagrams for wiring the complete house.

A complete instruction on using Tapewire to wire your doll house or room box. This 42 page book covers basic installation of tapewire and connections to it. It also includes: using the wall outlets and plugs; eyelets; switches; ceiling fixture installation; covering over the tapewire; and troubleshooting. 30 figures (diagrams).

Complete instruction on using Round wire to wire your doll house or room box. This 40 page book covers basic installation of round wire and connections to it. It also includes: planning the layout and types of wiring runs – surface wiring and concealed wiring; installing fixtures; switches; replacing light fixtures; and troubleshooting. 50 figures (diagrams).